Wednesday, July 26, 2017

11. New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park, Massachusetts


               Hello, and welcome once again to our blog.  In this post, we're traveling back to Massachusetts, this time to the southeast portion of the state to look at a park preserving locations in New Bedford associated with the long gone whaling industry, a way of life that inspired the classic novel Moby Dick.

 
Entrance Sign




BACKGROUND:

               The town of New Bedford first became a whaling port in the early 1800s when whalers from Nantucket moved there in order to take advantage of the town’s superior harbor.  Whaling, the hunting of whales for their bone and blubber, was extremely lucrative in the first half of the 19th century.  Prior to kerosene becoming the popular lantern oil of choice, oil extracted from whale blubber was prized for its bright and clean burning properties.  Due to the expertise of the original Nantucket whalers in the craft of whale hunting, New Bedford grew into the world’s foremost whaling port, generating immense prosperity.  Whaling ships from New Bedford traveled the world, moving from hunting ground to hunting ground across every ocean.  The heyday of the whalers was graphically captured in the classic novel Moby Dick, written by Herman Melville who had himself sailed on whaling ships as a young man and spent time in New Bedford.  While petroleum based oil became the preferred lubricant and fuel source following the Civil War, whaling continued out of New Bedford well into the 20th century as whale bone also became profitable for use in clothing.
A model of a 19th century whaling ship in the park visitor center


Whaling slowly died out in North America, eventually being outlawed in most of the world as whale populations dwindled almost to extinction.  New Bedford transitioned to a commercial fishing town, but citizens chose to preserve historic homes and buildings that once powered the long defunct industry, leading to the establishment of New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park in 1996.

 THE PARK:

               New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park preserves, in cooperation with several private entities, an area of the old historic center of the town of New Bedford.  Within the area covered by the park border are many buildings and landmarks closely linked to the whaling industry of the early 19th century.  Several other buildings are part of the park despite not being within the established park boundary.
A view down Centre Street to the waterfront in the historic district within the park's boundaries


               Of the many historic buildings within the park, only the main visitor center is owned by the National Park Service.  The other buildings are run by private organizations, and some are not open to the public for tours.

               The main visitor center is located within a former bank building at the corner of William and North 2nd streets.  The visitor center extends into an adjacent building and contains exhibits on the history of whaling and New Bedford, as well as a short film.  A second smaller visitor center is located on the waterfront, which focuses more on New Bedford’s modern fishing industry.

The main visitor center


               Across the street from the main visitor center is the historic US Customs House where sailors would acquire citizenship documents before their voyages.  The building is still in use by Customs and Border Patrol and not open to the public for tours.

               Nearby is the New Bedford Whaling Museum.  The museum is a local staple and was in existence long before the creation of the park.  The museum contains several whale skeletons, ship models, and more, while the building itself is an historic structure.
The New Bedford Whaling Museum

               Across the street from the Whaling museum is the Mariners’ Home and the Seamen’s Bethel.  The Mariners’ Home was established in 1850 to provide lodging for poor sailors who could not afford to buy or rent a permanent residence.  The Seamen’s Bethel next door is a nondenominational church, founded to serve the spiritual needs of New Bedford’s sailors who, due to the nature of how whaling crews were recruited, were both ethnically and religiously diverse.
The Seamen's Bethel

               Several historic houses of prominent citizens connected with the whaling industry are also preserved by the park, along with several other buildings including the Rodman Candleworks (now a restaurant) and the historic Double Bank, in addition to a sailing schooner, the Ernestina-Morrissey, berthed at the waterfront.

TRAVEL TIPS:


               It is recommended for visitors to come to New Bedford on a Sunday morning in order to avoid weekday traffic and heavy parking amongst the historic district’s narrow streets.  The visitor centers and Whaling Museum are open from 9:00am-5:00pm year-round.  Guided walking tours are available twice daily during the summer.  The walking tour is highly recommended, as well as the short film which plays both in the visitor center and the Seamen’s Bethel.  The Whaling Museum requires a fee to visit, which will also grant visitors entrance to the Mariners’ Home, however the Seamen’s Bethel is open for free.  A fee is also required to tour the Rotch-Jones-Duff House and Garden Museum, several blocks away from the main park.  The schooner Ernestina-Morrissey is open seasonally, but was not in port during the authors’ visit as it was undergoing a multi-year restoration in Canada.  Passport stamps are located at the main visitor center.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS:
The historic US Customs House

The Mariners' Home

The Rotch-Jones-Duff House and Garden Museum
The Rodman Candleworks building

Interior of the Seamen's Bethel.  The ship's-bow-pulpit was invented by Herman Melville for Moby Dick, but public confusion due to its absence after being featured in the 1956 film version led to the installation of an actual pulpit.

Herman Melville's Pew at the Seamen's Bethel
The waterfront visitor center
The Benjamin Rodman House, home of wealthy whaling magnate

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