Sunday, April 23, 2017

2. Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Ohio

Welcome back to our guide to the National Parks!  In this post, we’ll be making our first visit to one of our country’s big fifty-nine National Parks, Cuyahoga Valley National Park.

Park Entrance Sign

               It may come as a surprise to people in other parts of the country that the Cleveland area is host to one of the nation’s full-fledged National Parks, and while it may not have the size or grandeur of its sister parks out west, it is nonetheless a place of unique beauty and priceless historical value.


BACKGROUND:  Cuyahoga; A Native American name, sometimes difficult to pronounce, meaning ‘crooked,’ that aptly fits the river that winds through the center of both the Valley and Park that bare its name.  The valley itself stretches roughly 30 miles from Akron to Cleveland, where the Cuyahoga empties into Lake Erie, with the river winding its way down the middle.

The Cuyahoga River makes a turn around one of its many bends in Peninsula
               The valley was created eons ago, carved by ancient forerunner rivers to the Cuyahoga, which only appeared after the receding of the glaciers following the end of the last Ice Age just over 10,000 years ago.  In the following Millennia, the valley was continuously inhabited by Native Americans until the first appearance of European settlers in the late 1700s.

               With the beginning of white settlement of the area, the valley became more industrialized, and its traditional role as a transportation route even more important with the building of the Ohio and Erie Canal in the 1820s to link the Ohio river with Lake Erie, and by extension the Erie Canal in New York.  Soon the area began an economic boom, turning Cleveland and Akron into major population centers.  Over time, however, the canal saw less use due to the advent of railroads as a more efficient means of transportation, and operations ceased for good following the Great Flood of 1913 which wreaked the canal beyond repair. 


The partially frozen canal (left) and Towpath Trail (right) in winter.

Nevertheless, the valley remained an important industrial center, especially at its northern and southern tips in Cleveland and Akron.  However, pollution caused by the very industry that had brought wealth to the area nearly ruined the valley.  Following the infamous 1969 “Burning River” incident, a conscious effort was made to clean up the Cuyahoga River and restore the valley to a more natural state.  The work paid off, when in 1974, a large track of territory in the valley was designated a National Recreation Area under the overview of the National Parks Service.  At the time the decision was quite contentious as arguments over property rights raged between the Federal Government and local citizens, but in the intervening years, the park has become a cherished feature of the local community.

Cuyahoga Valley was upgraded to full-fledged National Park status in 2000.
Brandywine Falls, the Park's signature natural attraction.


THE PARK:  Cuyahoga Valley National Park has many unique features that differentiate it from most of the other more well-known National Parks.  The main reasons for these unique characteristics have to do with the fact that the park is bordered to its north and south by major metropolitan areas, and surrounded by the accompanying suburbs.  It has sometimes been described as the “Urban National Park,” and has cultivated partnerships with its neighbors.  As such, there are many private institutions that operate within the park’s boundaries.  Several of the areas within the park are in fact run by the Cleveland and Summit County Metroparks as these reservations were already in existence when the park was first formed.  In addition to the local Metroparks, there is Blossom Music Center, a large open air amphitheater which hosts musical performances, the Brandywine and Boston Mills ski resorts, numerous private residences, and most exotically, the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad.


Frozen Bridal Veil Falls located in Bedford Metroparks Reservation within the National Park boundary.

               The most defining feature of Cuyahoga Valley National Park though, is the Towpath Trail.  Acting as the park’s spine, the Towpath, which follows the exact route of the original towpath used by workmen and animals to pull boats along the Ohio and Erie Canal, is the park’s most popular and identifiable feature.  The entire Towpath trail is in the process of being completed to span the entire length of the historical canal, but it is within the boundaries of Cuyahoga Valley National Park that it receives its most visitors.  It is popular for both hiking and biking, even in the winter.  In addition, the park has many other numerous trails for biking, hiking, and horseback riding, three golf courses, and a Boy Scout Reservation.

 
The Towpath Trail in spring

TRAVEL TIPS:  How you visit Cuyahoga Valley National Park will depend on the amount of time you wish to spend there, what sites you wish to see, activities to do, and of course the weather.  Generally it is recommended to go in the summer to be able to view all of the Valley's scenic areas without difficulty, however Boston Mills and Brandywine Ski Resorts and The Winter Sports Center at Kendall Lake towards the Park's southern end provide winter activities.

               One of the two most identifiable features of the park is the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad.  Running parallel to the river on its west bank, the railroad provides visitors with a leisurely ride through the length of the park, stopping at several points along the way, including the always popular town of Peninsula, nestled in the very center of the park.  The Railroad is a private entity, and tickets are available online or at several rail stops within the Park.

The Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad pulls into Peninsula Depot

               The most advantageous way to travel the park is by car.  All Visitor Centers and trail heads include a brochure that gives you the route for an abbreviated car tour of the major locales within the park.  Generally, any trip to the park, be it the scenic railroad, a car tour, or an excursion on the Towpath, will take up most of a day.

               Starting at the north end of the park and working your way down, the first stop for any visitor should be the Canal Exploration Center.  This is the first of three Visitor Centers in the park.  The main focus of this Visitor Center is the history of the Ohio and Erie Canal, with exhibits about the canal inside the former canal stop store.  Outside the Visitor Center is a fully restored canal lock used to demonstrate how the canal functioned.

The Canal Exploration Visitor Center and restored Canal Lock

               Further down the Valley, past the ski resorts is the small village of Boston, and the second Visitor Center, Boston Store.  Another store along the Towpath trail, this is the main Visitor Center for the park.  Inside are exhibits on canal boats and a short film on the history of the park.  A short distance to the south from Boston Store is the town of Peninsula, a favorite stop for the scenic railroad and bicyclists on the Towpath with several restaurants.  Also within the area to east is Brandywine Falls.  Cascading down a small gorge, the Falls mark the site of an early settlement in the Valley which attempted to use the Falls to power industries.  The ruins of those industries still lie at the top of the gorge, however they do not mar the beauty of the park’s most scenic view.

Boston Store Visitor Center

               Beyond Peninsula is another popular area of the park known as Ledges.  This is a horseshoe shaped plateau, the edge of which forms a sharp series of ledges where rock has split away from the plateau from the effects of glaciers thousands of years ago..  Within close proximity is Kendall Lake, the location of the Winter Sports Center, but it is also a popular spot for recreational fishing.


Ledges

               The southern end of the park includes the Hunt House, a small farm house which acts as the third Visitor Center.  Nearby to the west is Hale Farm and Village, a living history reservation managed by the Western Reserve Historical Society to show visitors how people lived in the area during the early 19th century.  Also near the Hunt House is Beaver Marsh, a wetland naturally restored by beavers after it had once been an auto junkyard.

Beaver Marsh
               The sites mentioned above are only some of the many historic, scenic, and natural locations within Cuyahoga Valley National Park.  Whether you are taking the railroad, enjoying a brisk bicycle ride on the Towpath, or wandering a scenic trail there is much to enjoy in this urban National Park.  Always remember to pick up a park map/brochure so you can navigate around the park easily.  If you collect stamps for your National Parks passport book, you will find them at the three major Visitor Centers and the “Trail Mix” gift shop in Peninsula.


               I hope you have enjoyed this short primer on Cuyahoga Valley National Park.  Next up on our tours through the National Parks Service we will be visiting the birthplace of our National Anthem, Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine in approximately one month’s time.  Safe Travels!

Additional Photos:

The restored functioning canal lock at the Canal Exploration Center.

Hale Farm & Village
Hunt House Visitor Center

Ledges as seen from above

The ruins of a canal lock adjacent to the Towpath

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