Monday, April 8, 2019

46. Dry Tortugas National Park, Florida


               Hello and welcome back to our blog!  In this post we are visiting arguably the most remote National Park in the contiguous U.S., Dry Tortugas National Park.

Entrance Sign.  (Photo courtesy of Mark and Maureen Costa)

BACKGROUND:
               Located seventy miles west of Key West, the Dry Tortugas are the last in a long chain of islands known as the Florida Keys.  First charted by Conquistador Ponce de Leon, the islands were dubbed Las Tortugas, “The Turtles” in English.  The name was later changed to Dry Tortugas due to the small islands lack of freshwater.
               After Florida was acquired from Spain by the United States, the U.S. Army began working on fortifying Florida in keeping with U.S. doctrines on seacoast defense.  The U.S. Navy believed that the natural anchorage at the Dry Tortugas could be used as a base of operations by a hostile navy in the event of war, threatening American trade routes through the Gulf of Mexico.  In order to prevent this, the Army commissioned the construction of Fort Jefferson to guard the anchorage.

The moat and front wall of Fort Jefferson.

               Construction on the fort would continue for two decades.  Owing to its remote location, the pace of building dragged on with little urgency.  With the outbreak of the Civil War, the Union retained possession of Fort Jefferson and converted it into a prison camp.  Its most infamous prisoner was Dr. Samuel Mudd, who had been caught up in the Lincoln Assassination Conspiracy (he had provided medical care to John Wilkes Booth following the assassination).  After assisting medical personnel at the fort following an outbreak of malaria, he was granted clemency and released. 
               Advances in naval artillery rendered the fort, constructed of comparatively fragile masonry, obsolete and with the anchorage it was meant to protect now seen as having little strategic value, Fort Jefferson was given to the navy for use as a coaling station for steam vessels.  Eventually the military gave up possession of the fort and it was established as a National Monument in 1935, later becoming a National Park in 1992.

The front wall and main entrance of Fort Jefferson as seen from the third level of the fort.

THE PARK:
               Dry Tortugas National Park is located approximately 70 miles west of Key West, Florida.  The Park is roughly 73 square miles in area, 99 % of which is open ocean.  There are seven islands in the park.  East, Middle, and Hospital Keys are small islets not much larger than sandbars and are off limits to the public as they are nesting grounds for endangered sea turtles.  The westernmost island is a long narrow strip of land called Loggerhead Key, which is topped with a lighthouse and is only accessible, via private watercraft.  In the center of the park is Garden Key, the home of Fort Jefferson.  Neighboring to the east are Bush Key, and Long Key, which may be connected together with Garden Key by a sandbar depending on sea currents and erosion.
               Fort Jefferson on Garden Key is a six sided, three-tiered, masonry fort.  Constructed with over sixteen million bricks it is the largest masonry structure in North America.

A view from atop the fort looking at Bush Key and Long Key, connected to Garden Key as of December 2018 by temporary land bridge.  The sandbar connecting the island comes and goes over the decades depending on water currents and erosion.  As recently as 2004 the islands were completely separated.

TRAVEL TIPS:
               Due to its remote location, Dry Tortugas National Park can be visited only by a select few methods of travel.  While private watercraft can travel to park, the most common option for visitors is to take the Yankee Freedom III ferry from Key West.  The ferry operates once daily, departing Key West at approximately 9am and returning approximately at 5pm.  While it is possible to purchase tickets the day before at the ferry dock ticket office, available space aboard the ferry is limited and advance tickets are almost always required.  The ferry ride is roughly two and a half hours from Key West to Garden Key.  The crew of the Yankee Freedom III provides meals for both breakfast and lunch as well as sales and rental of snorkel equipment.  In addition to the Yankee Freedom III, several companies operate float planes which deliver guests to the islands.

The Yankee Freedom III ferry docked at Fort Jefferson.

               Camping is permitted overnight on Garden Key.  Reservations must be made through the Yankee Freedom III, however facilities on the island (restrooms and showers) are nonexistent.  The only flush toilets are located aboard the Yankee Freedom III while there are vault toilets on the island.
               Fort Jefferson is an inherently dangerous environment, so caution is to be exercised while exploring.  The fort itself has no railings along the upper levels to prevent someone from falling, falling bricks from loose masonry though very rare may be possible, and there are no lifeguards for those who wish to go snorkeling.  There are two snorkel beaches on the north and south sides of the island near the ruins of the former coaling docks.
               A section of the fort is off limits to the public as it has been converted into modern housing for the park staff assigned to the island who live there a full year.  The fort is not handicapped accessible beyond the lower floor. Passport stamps can be found at the gift shop in the visitor center, located on the lowest level of the fort immediately north of the main entrance. 

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS


Pelicans perch atop posts at the private boat dock.

A view of Long Key taken from Bush Key.  Long Key is a wildlife refuge and is off limits to the public.

A Portuguese Man-Of-War washed ashore on Bush Key.  This is one of several that the authors encountered along the beach.  This species of jellyfish is very dangerous and potentially deadly even to humans.  Barely visible next to the jellyfish is a hole from which a crab had exited mere moments before this photo was taken.  The crab retreated immediately on finding the jellyfish.

The gallery of the first level of the fort.  Originally this would have been lined with cannon.

The parade ground of the fort as seen from above.

A chartered float plane comes in for landing.  Note the tents in the small camping area in the foreground.

The fort's lighthouse, undergoing restoration at the time of the authors' visit.

Cacti growing atop the wall on the third level of the fort.  The Dry Tortugas are extremely arid and temperatures can be punishing even in the winter.  One park staff member joked to the authors, "If you think this is bad you should see it July!"

A view of the north snorkel beach next to the ruins of a coaling dock.

A large section of the moat's retaining wall which had been damaged by recent hurricanes.